Image: Alexander McQueen AW15 collection at London Collections: Men
The penultimate day of London Collections: Men promised another relentless rendition of back-to-back events. First off the starting block was cult favourite and ever over-subscribed J.W. Anderson, who dictated his reimagined take on 70s chic through butter-soft leathers, slashed sleeves and flares.
Next up was ever-faithful Margaret Howell, with Oliver Cheshire dominating the FROW. The absence of ambassador David Gandy was evident, until he was caught slinking into a standing position, looking very nonchalant beneath a flat cap. When questioned why he wouldn’t come forward, he was heard to retort, in jest, “because I usually end up sitting on someone’s lap".
A recurring, and not frequently observed, reaction to this season's shows has been the fervour and consistency with which they've been received by the press. “LCM's growing popularity is down to its breadth of talent - from the big international labels and the craftsmanship of Savile Row, through smaller, homespun names to the fresh new designers coming out of the city's prestigious colleges,” says Harriet Walker, deputy fashion editor of The Times. “As male shoppers become more savvy, they're looking for diverse and original garments - the London menswear scene has something to suit every taste and a reputation that precedes it.”
Throughout the day, anticipation built as press and buyers awaited the always provocative Alexander McQueen. Backstage was a flurry of wet-look gel and bustling bodies. Military jackets met frock coats, as tabards collided with quilted soft furnishings. A focal point of the collection was the Union Flag-sectioned suit, bringing together floral jacquard and classical city tailoring.
Entitled ‘The Democratic Muse,’ the show stood as a symbol for peace and unity, by re-appropriating the often sullied idea of uniform, and transforming it into something that unites whilst giving a platform for individuality.
London Collections: Men continues tomorrow with: Tom Ford, Craig Green, Paul Smith and Burberry Prorsum.